Making Your Nissei ASB 70DP Lamps Just Work
Nobody wants to spend their afternoon hacking away at a machine just to replace a burnt-out bulb. That’s why we built our replacement infrared lamps to be simple “drop-in” parts for the Nissei ASB 70DP and similar PET blow-molding setups. You just swap the old tube for the new one. No modifications, no headaches, and no downtime.
The trick to the heat
It all comes down to the balance between voltage, wattage, and length. We use high-wattage shortwave lamps because they pack a ton of thermal energy into a tiny space. This is key. It gets your PET preform to that perfect “glass transition” temperature fast, without scorching the outer walls. But you have to be careful with the voltage. If you push a lamp past its spec, the tungsten filament thins out and snaps. It’s that simple. We match the voltage precisely so your lamps actually last.
Tough glass and solid connections
We use heavy-wall quartz glass. Why? Because these lamps go through a brutal cycle of heating up and cooling down, and cheap glass just can’t handle that kind of thermal shock. We also use a halogen cycle. It keeps the tungsten from sticking to the walls, which means the lamp lives longer. As for the fit, we stick to R7s or SK15 connectors. They’re the gold standard. When you slide the lamp into the socket, it seats firmly. No wobbling, no electrical arcing, and—most importantly—no melted housings.
Real-world tips
These lamps fit about 95% of the blow-molding gear out there because we don’t mess with the standard dimensions. You wire them up and get back to work. Just a heads-up: if you decide to bump up the wattage to speed up your cycle times, your cooling fans are going to work harder. If you push the heat too far, you might warp your reflectors. Just keep an eye on your airflow to make sure you aren’t creating hotspots on your preforms.